Mojave Desert Peak #5 - Eureka Peak
Explore Landscapes #63: It was a privilege to walk 10 miles through the pristine desert wilderness in complete silence and absorb all Mother Nature had to offer that day without any distractions.
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And I’m back. Apologies for my extended break from posting here. I spent some much-needed time updating my website and creating a new series of weekend workshops. You blink for a minute, and a month goes by!
Anyway, back to the post. I started 2024, confidently planning to hike a Mojave Desert Peak each month this year. Well, that didn’t happen for various reasons, but I’m determined to squeeze a few more in before the end of the year.
In mid-October, I found some time between workshops to hike Eureka Peak. I had the trail to myself and didn’t see another soul all day.
Many of the best hikes in Joshua Tree start at one of the thirteen backcountry boards strategically located at trailheads throughout the park. These are the only locations in the park where you can leave vehicles overnight, provided that you’ve pre-registered for your backcountry camping trip. This would be a day walk, so I did not need to register.
Eureka Peak is the 4th highest summit in the park (at 5,521 ft / 1,683 m) after Quail Mountain, Queen Mountain, and Inspiration Peak. It’s also the only significant peak in the park that you can drive up to within 50 feet of the summit - if you enter the park via Covington Flats.
However, I’m not one for doing things the easy way, so I had chosen the 10.4-mile hike (with 1,900 feet of elevation gain) that starts from the Black Canyon Campground backcountry board.
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I started this hike a few months ago while recovering from COVID and had to turn around after a little less than 2 miles because I wasn’t feeling up to it. I was determined it wouldn’t get the better of me this time; I was feeling good and moving faster than last time. Hiking in the fall in Joshua Tree is lovely. Typically, the temperature is between 75°F (24°C) to 85°F (29°C) with a light breeze.
The trail steadily climbs as you walk up Black Canyon. Then, take a left turn and start following the Short Loop Trail. The trail is easy to follow, but as its soft sand, it makes you work hard to maintain momentum and pace. That’s as good a reason as any to take frequent water breaks and to take in the view (both forward and back).
As I said at the start, I was privileged to have this 10-mile section of Mojave desert wilderness all to myself. I didn’t see another soul until I got back to the campsite. So, I used this opportunity to desert-bathe and savor the desert's sights, sounds, and smells.
The landscape is covered at lower elevations by Yuccas, Creosote Bushes, Blackbrush, and Joshua Trees. As you climb upwards, you notice that the Joshua Trees start to reduce in number at about 4,500 feet.
Now and again, beautiful golden yellow Nolinas stretched toward the sky and gently swayed in the breeze. Some of these Nolinas are over twice my height at 13 ft (4 m).
After following the Black Canyon and Short Loop Trails for under two miles, it was time to take a sharp right turn onto the Eureka Peak Trail. The trail followed a wash into a shallow canyon that progressively deepened over the next quarter of a mile.
I still find it incredible that the Mojave desert has such a rich variety of flora (and fauna). In my ignorance, when I first visited Joshua Tree National Park in 2011, I assumed there would be no life, just sand. How wrong I was.
As I made my way up the canyon, I passed numerous thriving Desert Willows, and Pinyon Pines nestled into Gneiss and Granite rock outcrops.
For the next couple of miles, I was inside the canyon and followed the trail ever upwards, winding this way and that. The rocky canyon floor, however, did make some respite from the soft sand lower down the trail.
As I exited the top of the canyon, I could begin to see further in all directions, and after cresting a couple of false peaks, I was finally at the top of Eureka Peak.
From Eureka Peak, you have incredible 360° views. Due South, looking out of the park and across the Coachella Valley, is San Jacinto Peak (10,834 ft / 3,302 m). Looking West, out of the park, is Mount San Gorgonio (11,503 feet / 3,506 m).
I took my time to savor the views and be present in that moment. I probably spent a good forty-five minutes sitting on the peak, studying the view in each and every direction.
The initial descent involved backtracking the way I’d come up the canyon; however, I did notice some wonderful Mojave Mount Cactus on the way down that, for some reason, I had missed going uphill. Maybe I was too focused on the effort required to gain height at the time. There are 15 species of cactus in Joshua Tree National Park - read the following article to learn more:
Soon after the cactus, I reached the start of the Burnt Hill Trail, which would be my way back down towards Black Rock Canyon and the campsite. I always prefer to walk a loop trail if possible, as I find out-and-backs less interesting.
I followed Burnt Hill Trail up and over the small summit, down towards Black Canyon, and on to the campground. It was a fantastic day exploring the Mojave desert wilderness and ticking off another new hike.
I was staying at the campsite that evening. I had a big portion of pasta and salad sitting beside the fire and then drifted into a hike-fuelled sleep.
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